Ice Fishing for Bass 101
Bass may be the most popular game fish in America, but few anglers fish for them through the ice. Since bass grow lethargic in the fall when water temperatures drop, most anglers assume bass only grow more disinterested after the ice forms. What they fail to realize is that the inactive bass of late autumn are reacting to the rapid falling of the water temperature. Once the temperature stabilizes, usually in the upper 30s or even lower 40s, largemouth bass go back on the feed.
When ice-fishing for bass, patience in setting the hook is key. If the angler attempts to set the hook as soon as a bass bites, he will likely pull the bait from the fish’s big mouth.
The best bet for a solid hook set is to allow the bass to make its initial run . When the bass comes to a stop, it means the bait fish probably was taken head first and the bass is now turning it in its mouth. The angler waits, holding the line with the slightest degree of slack. Then, when the bass begins its second run, the hook is set with a sharp pull.
Wherever there is ice on the water and bass beneath it, a know-how ice- angler can catch bass. And the best places to ice-fish for largemouth are those same small lakes and farm ponds that yield some of the best open-water angling earlier in the year. On such waters, deep spots are few and easy to locate, which makes it easier for anglers to find bass.
A farm pond or lake of a couple of acres or less usually has one or two deep pockets, and bass tend to concentrate in these holes. Come winter, those shallow shorelines are abandoned for the deepest pit in the pond. On sunny days, they may leave the depths and cruise the edges for food, but it’s usually better to set up over the deep holes and wait on the bass.
On large lakes, you’ll do best with depths of 10 feet or less. A cove that maintains a good winter weed bed can be the hottest spot on the lake. Every lake has ice-fishing “hot spots,” and most involve weeds in one way or another. Even when covered by thick winter ice, not all weeds die. It’s not unusual to find live vegetation between 4 and 12 feet deep. Any shallower, and the weeds usually die off and any deeper, not enough light penetrates to sustain the weeds through winter.
During the day, bass come out of the lake depths to cruise the weeds looking for food your job is to present a lively bait and wait for the flag to fly. Stagger the tip-ups in the winter weed field until you figure out the best depth to intercept these bass.
Where a point extends into deeper water, place tip-ups on both sloping sides from about 8 to 20 feet deep. As the bass move up and down the point, they’re likely to run into one of these baits.
In a farm pond, start out fishing the deepest hole. Stagger tip-ups around this deep pocket and also 20-30 feet from its outer edge. Bass have to move in and out of the deep holes to feed.
While any artificial lures can catch bass during the regular season, in winter, you need live bait. And for bass under ice, by far the best is a energetic shiner. Judge the size of bait by the size of the fish in the pond or lake. If you know a farm pond does not contain many bass over 2 pounds, then opt for the smaller shiners. Don’t be surprised when you pull a three-pounder, or better, through the ice of a farm pond or small lake.
The best way to hook a live shiner for ice-fishing is on a size 4 or 6 treble hook. Slightly open one of the bends of the treble and insert this point behind the dorsal fin, making sure you don’t hit the spine. Rigged this way, the bait fish can swim and the hook points turn up. You also may run the opened tine horizontally along one side of the fish, just behind the dorsal fin.
When ice-fishing for bass, braided line is much easier to handle than monofilament. It also doesn’t coil like monofilament and lays better on an open reel. For leaders, use various lengths of copolymer. Where you suspect pike or pickerel, use a wire leader. You can’t stop a pike from hitting a bass bait, but you can reduce the chance of it cutting through the line. Use a simple barrel swivel to connect the leader to the main line rather than tying loop-to-loop connections. Even in winter’s super clear water, a small black swivel several feet up the line does not reduce the number of bites or hook ups.
After all the ice holes are drilled and the tip-ups are set, reach for a jigging rod. Most states allow an angler to set a number of tip-ups and also use one hand-held rod. If that’s the case in your state, then you definitely want to fish one bait on a jigging rod.
Ice fishing rods are short compared to regular fishing rods. If it’s a complete jigging outfit, the rod usually includes a short stand that holds the tip over the ice hole.
Don’t set the rod over the ice but instead hold it in your hand. Imparting action to the bait gives you something to do, and it also improves the presentation. Use a soft jigging action and rely on feel rather than sight to detect pick ups. The instant you detect weight on the line, cease jigging. As the line begins to angle out from the ice hole, release line. With some simple reels, you may want to keep a finger on the line as it comes off the spool to prevent backlash.
As soon as the first run ends, put the reel back in gear. There’s enough stretch in the monofilament line to allow the bass to begin its second run after swallowing the bait. The moment you feel the fish moving again, rear back and set the hook.
A lot of angers don’t believe largemouth bass bite under the ice. That’s fine all fine and dandy. When they’re home fighting cabin fever, your out catching bass by the dozens. So on your next ice fishing trip to that small pond, think twice on just what you’ll be fishing for.
Tagged with: Bass Fishing
Filed under: Ice Fishing
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